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Byrne A.J.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2010

Synopsis Dry skin (also known as xerosis) is a cutaneous reaction pattern indicative of abnormal desquamation, which has not only cosmetic considerations, but can also lead to the penetration of irritants and allergens through the stratum corneum (SC). Over the last few decades, our understanding of the structure, composition, formation and function of the SC has advanced tremendously; however, despite these advancements, the occurrence of dry skin remains prevalent in the adult population. The clinical evaluation of dry skin is therefore of significant importance to the cosmetic industry not only for understanding the condition but also for measuring the effects of treatment. Traditionally, dry skin has been evaluated by visual inspection, however, recently a variety of bioengineering techniques have emerged enabling the investigator to objectively assess the extent of xerotic conditions. The most frequently employed methods for the evaluation of dry skin are discussed in this review, including regression testing, squametry, measurement of transepidermal water loss, epidermal hydration, profilometry, confocal Raman spectroscopy, optical coherence tomography, in vivo confocal microscopy and magnetic resonance imaging. © 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie. Source

Merinville E.,Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB | Byrne A.J.,Oriflame RandD Ltd | Visdal-Johnsen L.,Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB | Bouvry G.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | And 3 more authors.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2012

Synopsis The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12-week vehicle-controlled clinical study, the skin-lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a Rumex occidentalis extract and sunscreens (SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 Indian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) Chroma Meter® measurement (L*, a*, b*) and Individual Typology Angle (ITA°) calculation and (B) Visual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L* and ITA° compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L* and ITA° measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15-containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin-lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and Rumex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin-lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie. Source

Al-Bader T.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Byrne A.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | Gillbro J.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Mitarotonda A.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | And 4 more authors.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology | Year: 2012

Background The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture. Aim In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined. Patients/Methods Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements. Results Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On "aged" fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks. Conclusions Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed. © 2012 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Source

Cattley K.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | Duracher L.,Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB | Camattari P.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | Mavon A.,Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB | Grooby S.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2015

Background Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A-A-A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application. Objectives To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A-A-A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre-formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations. Methods Analytical evaluation of A-A-A was undertaken using LC-MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations. Results Analytical evaluation of A-A-A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A-A-A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing. Conclusion A-A-A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations. © 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie. Source

Oriflame Research And Development Ltd. | Date: 2014-06-19

Non-therapeutic cosmetic or dermatological use of at least one of a compound selected from the group consisting of: gibberellic acids, naringenins, N-acetylaspartic acids, -aescin, arachadonic acid, quercetin, vitexin and docosahexaenoic acid (ethyl ester). Suitably, the use is in the treatment of, and/or prevention of, at least one sign of skin ageing or at least one sign of a skin damage condition associated with ageing, wherein the sign of skin ageing or skin damage is present on skin of the face, body or the scalp of a subject.

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