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Östermalm, Sweden

Merinville E.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Byrne A.J.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Rawlings A.V.,AVR Consulting Ltd | Muggleton A.J.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Laloeuf A.C.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology | Year: 2010

Background: Anti-aging effects of high concentrations of salicylic acid (SA) peels are commonly known. Like all acids, SA can produce somatosensory and visible irritation to the skin and as such may be unsuitable for subjects with sensitive skin. Aims: To provide evidence that sodium salicylate (SS) obtained from neutralization of 1% SA by sodium hydroxide can deliver significant anti-aging benefits. Methods: The effects of SS were examined using three approaches: (1) evaluating its effects on stimulating the synthesis of fibrillin and collagen-1 in vivo; (2) examining its efficacy by using Fast Optical in vivo Topometry (FOITS) in a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study; (3) determining its effects on both expert and naïve grader assessement of wrinkles in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Results: In the first study SS produced significant increases of the fibrillin and collagen-1 anti-aging biomarkers compared with the untreated skin control. A commercially available retinol cream delivered similar effects to SS. In the second study using FOITS we showed that the SS formulation significantly reduced wrinkle depth (Rz) and skin roughness (Ra) after 4 and 8 weeks of daily application vs. placebo (Rz: -8.2 ± 1.40% and -11.4 ± 1.07%; Ra: -7.8 ± 1.33% and -11.9 ± 0.61%; P < 0.01). In the third study reductions in wrinkle depth were observed by expert assessment at both 4 and 8 weeks for the SS-containing formulation compared to its placebo (P < 0.05). Equally, non-expert graders recorded the SS formulation superior to its placebo. Conclusion: Although the mechanism of action is not completely understood, we believe the benefits of SS are derived from its intrinsic stratum corneum exfoliation effects. All three studies demonstrate the significant anti-aging effects of SS that are especially suitable for subjects with sensitive skin. © 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Svarnas P.,University of Patras | Papadopoulos P.K.,University of Patras | Vafeas P.,University of Patras | Gkelios A.,University of Patras | And 2 more authors.
IEEE Transactions on Plasma Science | Year: 2014

This paper is devoted to the study of gas flow fields related to helium atmospheric pressure guided streamer (plasma bullet) propagation in the air. For very weak up to moderate helium flows, the modification induced to the gas flow field by the plasma ignition is demonstrated; it is shown that the turbulent flow region is expanded and two conditions must be fulfilled regarding the working gas profile in the air for streamer propagation, i.e., laminar flow and high concentration in this laminar flow region. © 2014 IEEE.

Al-Bader T.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Byrne A.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | Gillbro J.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Mitarotonda A.,Oriflame Research and Development Ltd | And 4 more authors.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology | Year: 2012

Background The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture. Aim In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined. Patients/Methods Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements. Results Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On "aged" fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks. Conclusions Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed. © 2012 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Duracher L.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Visdal-Johnsen L.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Mavon A.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2015

Objective The purpose of this study was to evaluate the dermal absorption of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) through an in vitro and in vivo evaluation with human skin after 6 and 24 h of topical application of a cosmetic formulation containing A-A-A at 1%. Methods The in vitro experiment was carried out using the Franz diffusion cells system with ex vivo human skin samples. The profile of diffusion of A-A-A was evaluated after 6 and 24 h. The in vivo experiment was performed on human volunteers following a tape-stripping protocol after 6 h of topical application. A-A-A was quantified in the main skin compartments, that is the skin surface, the stratum corneum, the skin and the receptor fluid using LC-MS analysis. Results The 24-h in vitro experiment confirmed the great penetration potential of A-A-A in all skin compartments. After 6 h of topical application, the removed tape strips from both in vitro and in vivo experiments were analysed and the profile of diffusion of A-A-A was determined, allowing also an in vitro/in vivo comparison. The diffusion profile observed on the in vitro skin penetration test is highly representative of the in vivo situation evaluated on volunteers. Conclusion The combination of in vitro with in vivo data confirmed that A-A-A has the capacity to diffuse through the skin after topical application and reach the dermis as the targeted skin layer for potential anti-ageing benefits. © 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

Merinville E.,Oriflame RandD | Grennan G.Z.,Oriflame RandD | Gillbro J.M.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Mathieu J.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB | Mavon A.,Oriflame Cosmetics AB
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2015

Objective The desire for a youthful look remains a powerful motivator in the purchase of cosmetics by women globally. To develop an anti-ageing solution that targets the need of end consumers, it is critical to understand which signs of ageing really matter to them and which influence their age perception. To date, such research has not been performed in a Russian population. The aim of this work was to identify the signs of ageing that contribute the most to an 'older' or 'younger' look for Russian women aged 40 years old and above. Methods The age of 203 Russian female volunteers was estimated from their standard photographs by a total of 629 female naïve assessors aged 20-65 years old. Perceived age data were related to 23 facial skin features previously measured using linear correlation coefficients. Differences in average severity of the correlating skin ageing features were evaluated between women perceived older and women perceived younger than their chronological age. Volunteers' responses to a ranking question on their key ageing skin concerns previously collected were analysed to provide an additional view on facial ageing from the consumer perspective. Results Nine facial skin ageing features were found to correlate the most with perceived age out of the 23 measured. Such results showed the importance of wrinkles in the upper part of the face (crow's feet, glabellar, under eye and forehead wrinkles), but also wrinkles in the lower half of the face associated with facial sagging (upper lip, nasolabial fold). Sagging was confirmed of key importance to female volunteers aged 41-65 years old who were mostly concerned by the sagging of their jawline, ahead of under eye and crow's feet wrinkle. The severity of hyperpigmented spots, red and brown, was also found to contribute to perceived age although to a weaker extent. Conclusion By providing a clear view on the signs of ageing really matter to Russian women who are aged 40 years old and above, this research offers key information for the development of relevant anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting their needs and their desire to achieve younger-looking skin. © 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

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