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Saint-Pierre-du-Chemin, France

Hajem N.,CNRS Natural Product Chemistry Institute | Hajem N.,ALES GROUPE | Chapelle A.,CNRS Natural Product Chemistry Institute | Bignon J.,CNRS Natural Product Chemistry Institute | And 5 more authors.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2013

The naturally occurring tetrapeptide acetyl-N-Ser-Asp-Lys-Pro (AcSDKP) recognized as a potent angiogenic factor was shown recently to contribute to the repair of cutaneous injuries. In the current article, we report the ability of AcSDKP to exert a beneficial effect on normal healthy skin and scalp and to compensate for the ageing process. In vitro AcSDKP at 10-11-10 -7 M significantly stimulates the growth of human keratinocytes, fibroblasts and follicle dermal papilla cells. Moreover, it enhances the growth of human epidermal keratinocyte progenitor and stem cells as shown in a clonogenic survival assay. Topical treatment of ex vivo cultured skin explants with 10-5 M AcSDKP increases the thickness of the epidermis and upregulates the synthesis of keratins 14 and 19, fibronectin, collagen III and IV as well as the glycoaminoglycans (GAGs). In the ex vivo-cultured hair follicles, AcSDKP promotes hair shaft elongation and induces morphological and molecular modifications matching the criteria of hair growth. Furthermore, AcSDKP at 10-11-10-7 M was shown to improve epidermal barrier, stimulating expression of three protein components of tight junctions (claudin-1, occludin, ZO-1) playing an important role in connecting neighbouring cells. This tetrapeptide exercises also activation of SIRT1 implicated in the control of cell longevity. Indeed, a two-fold increase in the synthesis of SIRT1 by cultured keratinocytes was observed in the presence of 10 -11-10-7 M AcSDKP. In conclusion, these findings provide convincing evidence of the regulatory role of AcSDKP in skin and hair physiology and suggest a cosmetic use of this natural tetrapeptide to prevent skin ageing and hair loss and to promote the cutaneous regeneration and hair growth. © 2013 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

Besse R.,Cergy-Pontoise University | Serfaty S.,Cergy-Pontoise University | Le Huerou J.-Y.,Cergy-Pontoise University | Lati E.,Laboratoire BIO EC
2015 Cosmetic Measurements and Testing, COMET 2015 | Year: 2015

This study presents a new online skin investigation technique for tracking products-to-skin mechanical effects. Ex vivo abdominal skin explants from plastic surgery and kept alive are used for this study. Considering the skin as a complex fluid made of membrane and fiber structures immersed in liquid, its mechanical response of a bulk thickness shear wave excitation (i.e. stress-strain analysis) involves both a viscous component associated with energy dissipation and an elastic component associated with energy storage. A tight monitoring of these two components from the response of a TSM sensor (based on an AT cut quartz resonator at 5 MHz) in contact to the dermis of the ex vivo explant give us access to the complex dynamic shear moduli (G' and G") evolution of the skin; The appropriate mechanical model describing the sensor response vs. shear waves/matrix interactions allows investigating the impact of the product (or treatment) to the viscoelastic properties of the skin. The complex study of the TSM response in time domain permits a control a) of the dehydration evolution at 37 °C due to interpenetrated intercellular lipid membranes matrix including the first step of permeation process from dermis to SC; b) the impact on the kinetics of the permeation process by a product applied at the SC surface. This information includes the structure and properties evolution of the collagen and elastic fibers and the proteoglycans located in the skin. A comparison of mechanical results with other techniques in the literature confirms the validity of the model. These preliminary results show that our TSM technique can be an appreciable new way for ex vivo skin investigation for test and optimization of new cosmetic products. © 2015 IEEE.

Ansel J.-L.,University of French Polynesia | Ly Q.,University of French Polynesia | Butaud J.-F.,British Petroleum | Nicolas M.,University of French Polynesia | And 5 more authors.
Comptes Rendus Chimie | Year: 2016

Cosmetopea regards on Fitchia nutans (asteraceae), an endemic plant previously used as a skin care ingredient included in a sacred traditional monoï preparation in French Polynesia, led us to investigate its cosmetoceutical properties. An extract of leaves of F. nutans was submitted to anti-ageing activity assays using ex vivo human skin tests and evidenced its potential to stimulate collagens and elastin dermal growth. We report herein the first phytochemical study of this plant extract, showing that its main constituents are sesquiterpenoids (including a new natural product compound: 15-isovaléroyloxydihydrocostunolide), phenylpropanoids, and phenolic derivatives. © 2016 Académie des sciences.

Gasser P.,Laboratoire BIO EC | Arnold F.,MMP SARL | Peno-Mazzarino L.,Laboratoire BIO EC | Bouzoud D.,Laboratoire BIO EC | And 3 more authors.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2011

Synopsis Glycation is an ageing reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins, whose clinical signs may appear in vivo around age 30, and increases steadily/regularly with age. The suppleness of the dermis is affected by the formation of bridges between proteins and sugars (Maillard's reaction). The residues formed (Amadori products, Advanced Glycation End products) as well as the proteins they alter, can be visualized by specific immunostainings. Induced in a few days on living skin explants by methylglyoxal, glycation can be prevented by the application of aminoguanidine HCl, the reference anti-glycation molecule. This model enabled to highlight the anti-glycation activity of substances of vegetal origin such as puerarin and chlorogenic acid. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

Maramaldi G.,Indena SpA | Togni S.,Indena SpA | Franceschi F.,Indena SpA | Lati E.,Laboratoire BIO EC
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology | Year: 2014

Purpose: The aim of this study was to investigate the topical efficacy of a new purified extract from Madagascar, Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica [L.] Urban), both on human explants and on human volunteers, in relation to skin wrinkling and skin protection against ultraviolet light exposure. The extract, with a peculiar content of biologically active molecules, was investigated as a novel anti-inflammaging and antiglycation agent. Its typical terpenes, known as collagen synthesis promoters, represent at least 45% of the extract. It also contains a polyphenolic fraction cooperating to the observed properties. Methods: C. asiatica purified extract was assayed on human skin explants maintained alive, and several parameters were evaluated. Among the most relevant, the thymine dimerization was evaluated by immunostaining. Malondialdehyde formation was evaluated as free-radical scavenging marker by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. The expression of interleukin-1α was observed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay as well. The product was further evaluated as an antiglycation agent, being glycation quantified by the advanced glycation product carboxymethyl lysine. C. asiatica purified extract was also evaluated as an antiwrinkling agent in a single-blind, placebo-controlled study. Formulated in a simple oil-in-water emulsion, the extent of wrinkling was assessed by skin replicas, skin firmness, skin elasticity, and collagen density measurements. Results: C. asiatica purified extract could protect DNA from ultraviolet light-induced damage, decreasing the thymine photodimerization by over 28% (P,0.05). A reduced (26%, P,0.01) expression of interleukin-1α was also observed, supporting its anti-inflammatory potential. C. asiatica purified extract showed in vitro a total inhibition of carboxymethyl lysine formation induced by the glycating agent methylglyoxal. A clear epidermal densification of collagen network in the papillary dermis was observed. These in vitro data have been confirmed by clinical results. Conclusion: These results qualify C. asiatica purified extract as an antiaging ingredient, addressing skin damage caused by inflammaging and glycation by relying on the synergy of triterpens and polyphenolics. © 2014 Maramaldi et al.

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