Guimaraes P.V.,Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul |
Guimaraes P.V.,Basque Center for Applied Mathematics |
Farina L.,Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul |
Farina L.,Basque Center for Applied Mathematics |
And 4 more authors.
Coastal Engineering | Year: 2015
We present a high resolution analysis of the interaction of irregular waves with natural and urban structures leading to extreme wave runup. Horizontal runup data, instantaneous flooding maps, and wave propagation beyond the coastline are numerically predicted. The novel methodology combining the Wave Watch III, SWAN and SWASH models to achieve accurate and computationally feasible simulation of waves at different time and spatial scales, from the formation process at deep water up to the total energy dissipation in the swash zone, is proposed. An access to the LIDAR database has provided a high resolution (15. cm-25. cm) of the subaerial surface which is essential for accurate representation of the hydrodynamic interactions with the beach profile. The suggested approach has been applied for evaluation of wave runup related to six storm events in Tramandaí Beach in Southern Brazil. This allowed for an identification of critical vulnerable overwashing areas as well as, critical information on flooding zones. The results are in agreement with the runup measurements performed in January 2014. The numerical methodology employed in this work has been also compared with the survey and conventional empirical model data. It was discovered that the empirical models lead to the systematic overestimation of the runup results. © 2014 Elsevier B.V.
Medina-Gonzalez J.C.,TYPSA Sede Social |
Diaz-Hernandez G.,Institute Hidraulica Ambiental IH Cantabria
Tecnologia y Ciencias del Agua | Year: 2014
This study analyzes the historical maritime climate on the coast of Manzanillo (Colima, Mexico), in order to reconstruct 62-year hourly wave statistics for the coastal zone. The analysis was performed by integrating different numerical tools, instrumental measurements and statistical techniques to jointly analyze the processes associated with the propagation of waves from deep waters to the coast. This information is likely to be used to drive future detailed coastal and harbour studies. The innovative contribution of this methodology includes the integration of different numerical wave propagation models and the use of algorithms to validate wave data obtained with instruments, as well as the establishment of a hybrid technique that enables performing an historical wave reconstruction with 62 years of duration in the study zone and with efficient and competitive CPU times. The proposed methodology can be easily adopted as a tool that can be commonly used for technical coastal and port engineering consulting. As an example of the use of the wave series offered by this study, a preliminary study of the short- (days to weeks) and long-term (months, seasons, years and decades) evolution of coastal dynamics is presented for the Tepalcates channel in Manzanillo, before and after its expansion.
Galofre J.,Coastal and Sea Sustainability |
Ortiz D.,Coastal and Sea Sustainability |
Medina R.,Institute Hidraulica Ambiental IH Cantabria
Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference | Year: 2012
Long term coastal erosion in beaches induced by long-shore sediment transport is an important aspect to be taken account in beach behavior. If anthropogenic impacts in coastal stretch (harbor, detached breakwaters, lack of sediments from streams and gullies, and urban pressure) interrupting long-shore currents and transport and decreasing sediment supply, the coastal equilibrium disappears. In this paper a case study is shown in order to analyze long term beach behavior in a coastal stretch affected by erosion. After a brief description of morphological aspects, causes and effects that have incidence on the case study area will be shown. General background and coastal works are detailed. The ideas based on a classical analysis of beach behavior are exposed and results obtained from bathymetric analysis and numerical models are showed. Morphology, wave climate, morphodynamics and sediment budget are evaluated and morphodynamic beach behavior is proposed. A diagnosis is made and mitigation proposal for coastal erosion will be proposed.
Solabarrieta L.,Tecnalia |
Rubio A.,Tecnalia |
Castanedo S.,Institute Hidraulica Ambiental IH Cantabria |
Medina R.,Institute Hidraulica Ambiental IH Cantabria |
And 2 more authors.
Continental Shelf Research | Year: 2014
High frequency (HF) radar stations have been working operationally in the southeastern part of the Bay of Biscay since 2009. The (2) systems provide hourly surface currents, with 5. km spatial resolution and a radial coverage lying close to 180. km. The detailed and quantitative description of the spatial patterns observed by the HF radar offers new evidence on the main ocean processes, at different time scales, affecting a study area where surface currents show marked temporal and spatial variability. A clear seasonality in terms of sea surface currents and along-slope circulation is observed, with cyclonic and anticyclonic patterns during the winter and summer months, respectively. From the analysis of low-pass filtered currents, a key component of this seasonal variability is associated with the surface signature of the slope current (Iberian Poleward Current (IPC)). Clearly intensified over the upper part of the slope, this current circulates eastward off the Spanish coast and northward over the French shelves in winter.Examination of the HF radar current fields reveals the presence of mesoscale structures over the area. At higher frequencies, an EOF (empirical orthogonal function) analysis of the inertial band-pass filtered data is used to study the complex spatial and temporal patterns associated with these processes and to evaluate quantitatively the relative contribution of the high frequency to the total variability, in space and time. Overall, inertial currents represent between 10 and 40% of the total variability; their contribution is significantly greater in summer and over the deeper part of the slope. Tides contribute much less than the total kinetic energy (KE), although their contribution over the shelf can be higher than that of the inertial oscillations, during winter. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.