São José dos Pinhais, Brazil
São José dos Pinhais, Brazil

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Lorencini M.,Grupo Boticario | Lorencini M.,University of Campinas | Brohem C.A.,Grupo Boticario | Dieamant G.C.,Grupo Boticario | And 3 more authors.
Ageing Research Reviews | Year: 2014

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications. © 2014 Elsevier B.V.


Angelucci F.L.,Grupo Boticario | Silva V.V.,Grupo Boticario | Dal Pizzol C.,Grupo Boticario | Spir L.G.,Grupo Boticario | And 2 more authors.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2014

The importance of odorants in human life has long been recognized. Literature contains different approaches of physiological and psychological effects of odorant compounds, fragrances and essential oils. This work discusses odorants inhalation effect, based on an overview of major studies in humans. Beneficial effect of fragrances is mainly related to human behaviour. Studies document odorants influence in sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems, and neurophysiological brain activity. Moreover, odours compounds can act on the neuroendocrine system, neurotransmitters and neuromodulators, influencing psychological behaviour as well as body function. Odorant inhalation modulates physiological pathways, and in some cases, results in skin function regulation. The mechanism is incompletely elucidated. These findings suggest that olfactory system plays a role in central nervous system function beyond that of smell. In this overview, it was observed that odour compounds influenced stress biomarkers, dehydroepiandrosterone, oxidative stress, estradiol, dopamine, cutaneous barrier, sebum secretion and cutaneous immune system in humans. Some can be related with skin function. As the skin is associated with an extensive biochemical cascade and has complex mechanisms, studies have far to go, as there are processes not yet investigated related to skin that may be affected through olfaction. Future researches are needed to further understand and describe the mechanisms of action of physiological effects in fragrance compounds. © 2013 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.


Silva A.R.,Federal University of Paraná | Seidl C.,Federal University of Paraná | Furusho A.S.,Federal University of Paraná | Boeno M.M.S.,Federal University of Paraná | And 2 more authors.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2013

Synopsis Plants with antioxidant properties are beneficial for preventing the ageing events evoked by UV light, and numerous products based on Camellila sinensis (green tea) are commercially available, many of which claiming to contain bioactive compounds that would prevent UV-induced skin damage. In this study, we tested the efficacy of five commercial green tea extracts used to enrich cosmetic formulations for protecting human and mouse fibroblasts against UV radiation effects and compared with a fluid one prepared according to the Brazilian Pharmacopoeia recommendations. Taking into consideration that the ageing process can be accelerated by solar radiation by excessive free radical generation, leading to depletion of skin antioxidant defences, and its collapse caused by disruption of the metalloproteinase metabolism, we have used their individual (-)-epigallocathechin-3-gallate (EGCG) content, the catalase and SOD status and the matrix-degrading metalloproteases (MMP)-1, MMP-9 and MMP-13 levels as comparative parameters. The EGCG content of the commercial products showed wide variability, ranging from undetectable levels to 58.65 ± 1.12 μg mL-1, in contrast with the fluid extract (87.82 ± 1.35 μg mL-1). Moreover, only the pharmacopoeic extract was able to significantly reduce MMP degradation while enhancing the levels of SOD and catalase. These results indicate, for the first time, that the methodologies for preparing herbal mixtures can interfere significantly with compounds endowed with photoprotective effects, and the efficacy of products containing C. sinensis extracts thought to act against effects of solar radiation can be compromised. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists.


Mogilevych B.,University of Paraíba Valley | Isensee D.,University of Paraíba Valley | Rangel J.L.,University of Paraíba Valley | Dal Pizzol C.,Grupo Boticario | And 3 more authors.
Progress in Biomedical Optics and Imaging - Proceedings of SPIE | Year: 2015

Vitamins A, E and C play important role in skin homeostasis and protection. Hence, they are extensively used in many cosmetic and cosmeceutic products. However, their molecules are unstable, and do not easily penetrate into the skin, which drastically decreases its efficiency in topical formulations. Liposoluble derivative of the vitamin A - retinyl palmitate, vitamin E - tocopheryl acetate, and vitamin C - tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid, are more stable, and are frequently used as an active ingredient in cosmetic products. Moreover, increased hydrophobicity of these molecules could lead to a higher skin penetration. The aim of this work is to track and compare the absorption of the liposoluble derivatives of the vitamins and their encapsulated form, into the healthy human skin in vivo. We used Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) that is proven to be helpful in label-free non-destructive investigation of the biochemical composition and molecular conformational analysis of the biological samples. The measurements were performed in the volar forearm of the 10 healthy volunteers. Skin was treated with both products, and Raman spectra were obtained after 15 min, 3 hours, and 6 hours after applying the formulation. 3510 Skin Composition Analyzer (River Diagnostics, The Netherlands) with 785 nm laser excitation was used to acquire information in the fingerprint region. Significant difference in permeation of the products was observed. Whereas only free form of retinyl palmitate penetrate the skin within first 15 minutes, all three vitamin derivatives were present under the skin surface in case of nanoparticulated form. © 2015 Copyright SPIE.


Martin A.A.,University of Paraíba Valley | Pereira L.,University of Paraíba Valley | Ali S.M.,University of Paraíba Valley | Pizzol C.D.,Grupo Boticario | And 5 more authors.
Progress in Biomedical Optics and Imaging - Proceedings of SPIE | Year: 2016

The aging process involves the reduction in the production of the major components of skin tissue. During intrinsic aging and photoaging processes, in dermis of human skin, fibroblasts become senescent and have decreased activity, which produce low levels of collagen. Moreover, there is accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs have incidence in the progression of age-related diseases, principally in diabetes mellitus and in Alzheimer's diseases. AGEs causes intracellular damage and/or apoptosis leading to an increase of the free radicals, generating a crosslink with skin proteins and oxidative stress. The aim of this study is to detect AGEs markers on human skin by in vivo Confocal Raman spectroscopy. Spectra were obtained by using a Rivers Diagnostic System, 785 nm laser excitation and a CCD detector from the skin surface down to 120 μm depth. We analyzed the confocal Raman spectra of the skin dermis of 30 women volunteers divided into 3 groups: 10 volunteers with diabetes mellitus type II, 65-80 years old (DEW); 10 young healthy women, 20-33 years old (HYW); and 10 elderly healthy women, 65-80 years old (HEW). Pentosidine and glucosepane were the principally identified AGEs in the hydroxyproline and proline Raman spectral region (1000-800 cm-1), in the 1.260-1.320 cm-1 region assignable to alpha-helical amide III modes, and in the Amide I region. Pentosidine and glucosepane calculated vibrational spectra were performed through Density Functional Theory using the B3LYP functional with 3-21G basis set. Difference between the Raman spectra of diabetic elderly women and healthy young women, and between healthy elderly women and healthy young women were also obtained with the purpose of identifying AGEs Raman bands markers. AGEs peaks and collagen changes have been identified and used to quantify the glycation process in human skin. © 2016 SPIE.


PubMed | Grupo Boticario
Type: | Journal: International journal of cosmetic science | Year: 2016

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non-functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation-induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.


PubMed | Grupo Boticario
Type: Journal Article | Journal: International journal of cosmetic science | Year: 2014

The importance of odorants in human life has long been recognized. Literature contains different approaches of physiological and psychological effects of odorant compounds, fragrances and essential oils. This work discusses odorants inhalation effect, based on an overview of major studies in humans. Beneficial effect of fragrances is mainly related to human behaviour. Studies document odorants influence in sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems, and neurophysiological brain activity. Moreover, odours compounds can act on the neuroendocrine system, neurotransmitters and neuromodulators, influencing psychological behaviour as well as body function. Odorant inhalation modulates physiological pathways, and in some cases, results in skin function regulation. The mechanism is incompletely elucidated. These findings suggest that olfactory system plays a role in central nervous system function beyond that of smell. In this overview, it was observed that odour compounds influenced stress biomarkers, dehydroepiandrosterone, oxidative stress, estradiol, dopamine, cutaneous barrier, sebum secretion and cutaneous immune system in humans. Some can be related with skin function. As the skin is associated with an extensive biochemical cascade and has complex mechanisms, studies have far to go, as there are processes not yet investigated related to skin that may be affected through olfaction. Future researches are needed to further understand and describe the mechanisms of action of physiological effects in fragrance compounds.

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