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Sojka M.F.,Estee Lauder Research Park | Cummins P.G.,Estee Lauder Research Park | Declercq L.A.G.,Estee Lauder Research Laboratories Europe | Fthenakis C.G.,Estee Lauder Research Park | And 11 more authors.
Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences | Year: 2011

We have developed a technology to incorporate micronized titanium dioxide (TiO2), together with antioxidants, in particles of a UV-visible transparent polymer gel. These particles are coated with silica to avoid clustering and the size of the micronized TiO2 reduces the back scattering of white light. gel-trapped TiO2 minimizes the oxidative stress exerted by UV radiation, increases the photo-stability of some accompanying ingredients, such as avobenzone. The size of the particles is in the micrometre range. This favors their permanence on the top of the stratum corneum. Gel-trapped TiO2-based sunscreens provide a larger SPF and two-fold larger UVA protection than equal-composition sunscreens that contain larger amounts of untrapped TiO2. © The Royal Society of Chemistry and Owner Societies 2011.


Giacomoni P.U.,Clinique Laboratories | Teta L.,Estee Lauder Research Park | Najdek L.,Estee Lauder Research Park
Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences | Year: 2010

The preparation of commercial products able to protect the skin against damage from solar radiation requires safe and photo-stable stable UV-absorbing molecules with high extinction coefficients, prepared with solvents of the appropriate polarities and polarizabilities in formulas which allow the uniform spreading of the UV-absorbing substances. The products should also maintain the ingredients on the top of the skin and provide efficient scavenging activities against singlet oxygen and other directly or indirectly generated reactive oxygen species. Because of the high doses of UV used to test high SPF, simple and reproducible methods are needed to estimate the protection afforded by the product before risking the induction of severe burns to the volunteers, as can occur when the value of the product's SPF is smaller than the expected one. This paper describes several aspects of the preparation of commercial sunscreens. It also points out several of the hidden hypotheses which, when not tested, might lead to the overestimation of the protection factor of a product. © The Royal Society of Chemistry and Owner Societies 2010.


The estimated apparent age (EAA) was estimated by a panel of trained experts, for the individuals in a cohort. Twelve independent clinical, biophysical and biochemical parameters measured on facial skin, have been identified by multiple regression analysis, which influence the EAA of a person of chronological age (CA) (under eye lines, clinically assessed crows feet, age spots, clinically evaluated firmness, forehead lines, pores, lip lines, instrumentally evaluated firmness, instrumentally evaluated crow feet, skin texture, in vivo fluorescence related to proliferation and glycation). An algorithm has been devised to obtain the calculated age score (CAS) in a cohort of 452 female volunteers, as CAS(n) = RCiPi(n) (i = 1-13, n = 1-452 and P13 = 1) where the coefficients Ci are obtained by minimizing the difference EAA - CAS, and Pi(n) are the experimental values of the i-th parameter for the n-th volunteer. The determination of CAS before and after a specific cosmetic or pharmacological anti-aging treatment can be used to objectively assess the efficacy of the treatment. The comparison of EAA(n) and of CAS(n) with CA(n) allows one to predict the susceptibility of an individuals face to undergo aging. It has been observed that the biophysical and biochemical parameters play a relevant role in the assessment of the predisposition of skin to undergo accelerated aging.


PubMed | Estee Lauder Research Park
Type: Journal Article | Journal: Photochemical & photobiological sciences : Official journal of the European Photochemistry Association and the European Society for Photobiology | Year: 2011

We have developed a technology to incorporate micronized titanium dioxide (TiO(2)), together with antioxidants, in particles of a UV-visible transparent polymer gel. These particles are coated with silica to avoid clustering and the size of the micronized TiO(2) reduces the back scattering of white light. gel-trapped TiO(2) minimizes the oxidative stress exerted by UV radiation, increases the photo-stability of some accompanying ingredients, such as avobenzone. The size of the particles is in the micrometre range. This favors their permanence on the top of the stratum corneum. Gel-trapped TiO(2)-based sunscreens provide a larger SPF and two-fold larger UVA protection than equal-composition sunscreens that contain larger amounts of untrapped TiO(2).

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