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Coffs Harbour, Australia

Law M.,Climbing Anchors Australia | Hawkshaw S.,Climbing Anchors Australia
Engineering Failure Analysis | Year: 2012

Climbers rely on anchors for safety; the type of anchor used depends on the rock type. This work describes a fatality caused by rope failure, which in turn was due to the failure of a anchor. Testing of similar anchors revealed insufficient strength in the rock type where the accident occurred. © 2012 Elsevier Ltd.

Law M.,Climbing Anchors Australia | Hawkshaw S.,Climbing Anchors Australia
Sports Engineering | Year: 2015

Climbers sometimes rely on fixed anchors which are secured in drilled holes by mechanical expansion or with glue. Most rock climbing takes place on high strength rock and there has been considerable testing of anchors worldwide. However, there has only been limited testing of anchors in weaker rock. Over 60 anchors were tested in weak rock, failure loads of 8–48 kN were achieved. Chemically bonded anchors were the strongest, the 10 mm rings and 10 mm U-bolts were the only anchors that passed the European standard (EN 959). Older style anchors showed low strength and high variability. The relative strengths of single and twin holes anchors followed predictions based on interaction theory. The results also confirm the prediction of mixed glue/rock failure. The cyclic loading behaviour of anchors was explored, anchor with higher stiffness appeared to perform better; the U-bolts had the best fatigue performance. © 2014, International Sports Engineering Association.

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