Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute

Changzhou, China

Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute

Changzhou, China

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Sun H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Sun H.,Changzhou Key Laboratory of New Textile Material | Wang M.-Q.,Changzhou Sanmao Worsted Group Co. | Zhao X.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute
Wool Textile Journal | Year: 2014

The experimental material uses doubling and twisting yarn worsted fabric of wool and bamboo charcoal filament attached to new green environmental fiber. It selects tensile property, antiwrinkle performance, moisture permeability and UV protection performance in particular. The result is all new products have better tensile property and moisture permeability compared with wool and bamboo charcoal filament interlacing fabric. Moisture permeability of doubling and twisting yarn fabric increases and UV protection performance falls off gradually when weight and weave is equation of all fabric. It also gets No. 1 sample has optimal performance in four properties when the content of bamboo charcoal filament is 29.5% ,the twist is 58.5 twist/10 cm, the weave is plain, the square meter gram weight is 144 g/m2 by product performance rank method.


Zhang Z.,Donghua University | Zhang Z.,Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology | Zhang Z.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Wang Y.,Donghua University | And 2 more authors.
Fibers and Polymers | Year: 2010

The influence of air gap thickness on clothing surface temperature is analyzed by means of experimental and simulated methods. A three-dimensional body scanner is used to determine the air gap distribution between different-sized garments. The clothing surface temperature is measured by an infrared thermal camera to evaluate the heat transfer through air gap layer. The combination of two non-contact measuring techniques is a novel way to investigate the relationship between air gap thickness and clothing surface temperature. A mathematical model is set up to simulate the heat and moisture transfer from skin to environment by including the sensible and latent heat transfer through air gap layer under clothing, fabric layer and boundary air layer adjacent to the fabric. The established mathematical model is used to forecast the surface temperature and evaluate the heat transfer capacity of different sized garments. © 2010 The Korean Fiber Society and Springer Netherlands.


Zhang Z.-H.,Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology | Zhang Z.-H.,Donghua University | Wang Y.,Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology | Li J.,Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology | Li J.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute
Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe | Year: 2011

Considering a clothing system consists of the human body, an air gap layer under the clothing as well as a fabric layer and boundary layer adjacent to the fabric, heat transfer from the skin to the environment is influenced by human body thermoregulation, the air gap, the fabric and environmental conditions. Based on Stolwijk's 25-node thermoregulatory model, a new mathematical model was developed to include the sensible and latent heat transfer through the air gap, fabric layer and boundary layer adjacent to the fabric. To quantify the effect of the air gap on human body heat transfer, a 3D human body scanner was utilized to measure the air gap thickness of five experimental garments of increasing chest circumference. The model can be used to predict the apparent clothing temperature and heat loss from the human body when people are dressed in differently sized clothing.


Xu T.-H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Xu T.-H.,Changzhou Key Laboratory of New Textile Material | Sun H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Sun H.,Changzhou Key Laboratory of New Textile Material
Applied Mechanics and Materials | Year: 2014

The study shows overfeed sewing shrinkage was not linear relationship with physical property and garment sewing process parameter. It chose simulation arm of light wool fabrics to do overfeed sewing experiment, and selected seven characteristic values such as connection length of long fabric, connection length ratio flexural-tensile modulus ratio, relaxation shrinkage and wet expansion rate of long and short fabric, and applied artificial neural network to forecast overfeed sewing shrinkage of light wool fabrics. Compared with actual result, the error of predicted result was lesser. The foundation of prediction model is significant for woolen mill to develop a set of interactive software and extend application. © (2014) Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland.


Xu T.H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Xu T.H.,Changzhou key Laboratory of New textile material | Sun H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Sun H.,Changzhou key Laboratory of New textile material
Advanced Materials Research | Year: 2013

In order to analyze the influence of dimensional stability on overfeed sewing shrinkage of wool fabric, the paper used theoretical analysis equation to evaluate and overfeed sewing shrinkage of wool-type fabrics and took water shrinkage as index of dimensional stability to analyze its influence on overfeed sewing shrinkage characteristic value such as connection length, fabric connection length ratio. The research revealed the relationship of dimensional stability and overfeed sewing shrinkage, and derived calculation method of oblique shrinkage based on analysis of warp and weft shrinkage. It provided the theory reference on sewing quality of wool fabric in apparel manufacture and use. © (2013) Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland.


Kong H.-Y.,Soochow University of China | Gu B.-F.,Soochow University of China | Gu P.-Y.,Soochow University of China | Su J.-Q.,Soochow University of China | And 2 more authors.
Procedia Engineering | Year: 2011

Torso of female lower body feature such as waist, abdomen and hip is the key factor of pants and skirt design so that rules confirm is the important point in the research of automatic generation of pants pattern and skirts pattern. In the three-dimensional human body scanner, a certain difference exists of human lower body torso 3D sizes between scanner data and actual measurement data so that research of calculation rules of lower body torso 3D sizes becomes necessity. In this research, 425 female students at Soochow University from 18 to 26 years old were selected as subjects. Point-cloud diagrams can be obtained by using 3D body scanner and be read by using IMAGEWARE software and then each 3D size and width and thickness of each 3D section. Then classification can be done according to the value of thickness and width with 0.05 file and relations between width and girth, between thickness and girth can be analyzed by using SPSS16.0 to obtain calculation modules of each 3D size then its accuracy can be verified to provide the basis for valid application of three dimensional body scanner and lay foundation of the prototype generation of female pants, design of trousers and automatic pattern generation system research. © 2011 Published by Elsevier Ltd.


Zhang Z.,Donghua University | Zhang Z.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Wang Y.,Donghua University
2010 International Conference on Biomedical Engineering and Computer Science, ICBECS 2010 | Year: 2010

Garment fitness is influenced by garment pattern, human body shape, garment size and fabric drape. To investigate the effect of garment fitness on human body heat transfer, six different sized men's shirts with increasing chest circumference from 91cm to 111cm are tested. A thermal manikin with adjustable joint is used to test the thermal insulations and an infrared thermal camera is used to quantify outer surface temperatures of six garments. The PMV and PPD values are calculated when people dressed six garments in different sizes standing in an environment of temperature 20 ± 2°C, relative humidity 50 ± 5% and air velocity 0.2 m/s. Although the air gap thickness increases with garment size, the thermal insulations of six garments are not linear growth. Experimental garment with chest circumference 99cm has the highest thermal insulation and the lowest outer surface temperature in six garments. Based on a comprehensive analysis of garment fitness and PMV value, the garment with chest circumference 95cm seems to have the best thermal comfort in six experimental garments. A numerical model is established to forecast the effect of air gap thickness on garment surface temperature. ©2010 IEEE.


Gu B.-F.,Soochow University of China | Kong H.-Y.,Soochow University of China | Su J.-Q.,Soochow University of China | Su J.-Q.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Liu G.-L.,Soochow University of China
Advanced Materials Research | Year: 2011

In the developing of 2D non-contact anthropometry and application system, automatic pattern generation of men's pants system is important component. Styles of men's pants are single, and can be devised simply. In this paper, 6 kinds of devised styles are summarized by observing styles of men's pants, which divide into landscape orientation, lengthways orientation and slant segmentation all included straight line and curve. After the users enter into automatic pattern generation of men's pants system, they can choose devised style in the interface of design, and then related pattern can be automatically generated in the interface of pattern. In this paper, VS software is used to make programming, ganged style of pants in human body is realized by MATLAB, so the pattern can be automatically generated according to the rules of pattern and devised styles. This study provides the basis for automatic pattern generation of men's pants system. © 2011 Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland.


Gu B.-F.,Soochow University of China | Kong H.-Y.,Soochow University of China | Gu P.-Y.,Soochow University of China | Su J.-Q.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Liu G.-L.,Soochow University of China
Proceedings - 2011 International Conference on Future Computer Sciences and Application, ICFCSA 2011 | Year: 2011

Based on automatic extraction of human body size, this paper developed automatic pattern generation system of men's pants. The specific demand is as follows: The user needs to provide front and side photos, and makes individual design on pant style, and then the system can automatically generate the patterns according to the body type and the pant style of the user. In this study, the 2D non-contact anthropometric system is combined with automatic pattern generation system, so the automatic anthropometry and pattern generation system is developed, which can meet individual demand. The research results possess practical guidance to quick generation of individual pattern and the development of e-commerce in garment industry. © 2011 IEEE.


Yuan H.,Changzhou Textile and Garment Institute | Hauser P.J.,North Carolina State University
AATCC Journal of Research | Year: 2014

A bi-functional cationic agent was synthesized and was applied for cationization of cotton fabric. Pad-batch and exhaustion application processes were compared and dyeing levelness, adsorption isotherm, and effect of Na2CO3 on fastness were discussed. Results showed that the bi-functional cationic agent treated fabrics showed similar dye-uptake and slightly higher fastness than fabrics treated with a commercial mono-reactive cationic agent when applied by a pad-batch process, but displayed a higher color yield when the two agents were applied in an exhaust application. © 2014 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. All rights reserved.

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