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Mercurio D.G.,University of Sao Paulo | Jdid R.,Chanel Research and Technology Center | Morizot F.,Chanel Research and Technology Center | Masson P.,EVIC | Maia Campos P.M.B.G.,University of Sao Paulo
British Journal of Dermatology | Year: 2016

Background Knowledge of skin biology and its alterations in different populations is very important for the development of appropriate skincare strategies. Objectives To evaluate and compare morphological, structural and biophysical properties of photoaged skin in French and Brazilian populations, using biophysical and skin-imaging techniques. Methods Forty-one French and 41 Brazilian healthy, female volunteers aged between 40 and 65 years were enrolled. Each participant completed a questionnaire concerning habits related to cosmetic use, sun exposure and sun protection during different life periods. Skin on the face and volar forearm was evaluated using noninvasive techniques, to determine skin colour, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin microrelief, skin viscoelasticity and dermis structure. Reflectance confocal microscopy was used to measure epidermal layer thickness and epidermal morphological and structural characteristics. Results Compared with Brazilian skin, French skin was more hydrated, had a lower TEWL and presented a distinct viscoelastic profile on the forearms and face. Brazilian facial skin was more wrinkled, and the dermis was less echogenic on the forearms and face. The French participants had thicker stratum corneum. Brazilian facial skin presented a higher prevalence of rete ridge effacement, low interkeratinocyte reflectance, huddled collagen and solar elastosis. Conclusions Morphological, structural and biophysical differences were found when assessing the skin of the Brazilian and French participants, who were exposed to different environmental factors. © 2015 British Association of Dermatologists.

Porcheron A.,Chanel Research and Technology Center | Latreille J.,Chanel Research and Technology Center | Jdid R.,Chanel Research and Technology Center | Tschachler E.,Medical University of Vienna | Morizot F.,Chanel Research and Technology Center
International Journal of Cosmetic Science | Year: 2014

Synopsis Objectives Ageing leads to characteristic changes in the appearance of facial skin. Among these changes, we can distinguish the skin topographic cues (skin sagging and wrinkles), the dark spots and the dark circles around the eyes. Although skin changes are similar in Caucasian and Chinese faces, the age of occurrence and the severity of age-related features differ between the two populations. Little is known about how the ageing of skin influences the perception of female faces in Chinese women. The aim of this study is to evaluate the contribution of the different age-related skin features to the perception of age and attractiveness in Chinese women. Methods Facial images of Caucasian women and Chinese women in their 60s were manipulated separately to reduce the following skin features: (i) skin sagging and wrinkles, (ii) dark spots and (iii) dark circles. Finally, all signs were reduced simultaneously (iv). Female Chinese participants were asked to estimate the age difference between the modified and original images and evaluate the attractiveness of modified and original faces. Results Chinese women perceived the Chinese faces as younger after the manipulation of dark spots than after the reduction in wrinkles/sagging, whereas they perceived the Caucasian faces as the youngest after the manipulation of wrinkles/sagging. Interestingly, Chinese women evaluated faces with reduced dark spots as being the most attractive whatever the origin of the face. The manipulation of dark circles contributed to making Caucasian and Chinese faces being perceived younger and more attractive than the original faces, although the effect was less pronounced than for the two other types of manipulation. Conclusion This is the first study to have examined the influence of various age-related skin features on the facial age and attractiveness perception of Chinese women. The results highlight different contributions of dark spots, sagging/wrinkles and dark circles to their perception of Chinese and Caucasian faces. © 2014 Society of Cosmetic Scientists.

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